Sterling & Silver-Plated Flatware
Look at the wear points — the back of the spoon bowl and the fork tine tips. Sterling wears silver all the way through; plate wears through to a yellow, pink or grey base metal, and that copper halo on a high point is a definitive worthless verdict in one glance.
How to spot it
Sterling marks are STERLING, 925, .925 or STER; British sterling carries a lion passant plus assay office and date letters; continental marks are 800, 830, 835 or 900. Plate marks — all worthless for melt — are EPNS, EP, A1, AA, IS, Silver on Copper, Community, Rogers, Oneida, Sheffield Plate, triple/quadruple plate, nickel silver, German silver and alpaca. Marks sit on the reverse of the handle near the stem or on the base of hollowware. Sterling alongside weighted or reinforced means a thin shell over pitch or cement.
Metal content
| Metal | Quantity | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Silver | 92.5% ≈ 420 g/lb sterling | grams × 0.925 ÷ 31.1035 = troy oz fine. .800 continental × 0.800; coin silver × 0.900 |
| Silver | hollow-handle knives: only 8–20 g per piece | Handle shell only — never value a knife by its full 55–90 g gross weight |
| Silver | silver plate: ~0.1–0.5 g per teaspoon | Effectively zero — a few microns on nickel-silver that no refiner will separate |
At 4 Aug 2026 spot prices that works out to $798 per pound of contained metal — Silver 420 g = $798. A refiner paying $700 returns about 88% of that, which is normal: refining costs money and the buyer takes a margin.
Safe removal
Working temperature: Handle filler softening 120–150 °C
Weigh everything on a 0.1 g scale and sort by mark before you talk to anyone, separating solid sterling, hollow-handle knives, weighted bases and plate. Do not polish before selling to a refiner — polishing removes silver and refiners buy on assay. For hollow handles, heat gently to ~120–150 °C to soften the pitch cement and pull the blade, then scrape the filler out. Never melt at home; sterling's copper oxidises and a home melt reduces what a refiner will pay.
Hazards
NEVER dry sweep or use compressed air on a scrapping bench. HEPA-vac or wet-wipe only.
NEVER vacuum a mercury spill — it aerosolises it. Use a mercury spill kit or sulphur powder, or call your local hazmat line.
NEVER burn boards, wire insulation or plastic. Ever.
NEVER pour any of these down a drain or onto the ground. They are all regulated waste streams.
Before you scrap it
The common trap
Questions
How much gold is in sterling & silver-plated flatware?
Silver: 92.5% ≈ 420 g/lb sterling. Silver: hollow-handle knives: only 8–20 g per piece. Silver: silver plate: ~0.1–0.5 g per teaspoon. At current spot that is about $798 of contained metal per pound.
How do you identify sterling & silver-plated flatware?
Look at the wear points — the back of the spoon bowl and the fork tine tips. Sterling wears silver all the way through; plate wears through to a yellow, pink or grey base metal , and that copper halo on a high point is a definitive worthless verdict in one glance.
How do you remove sterling & silver-plated flatware safely?
Weigh everything on a 0.1 g scale and sort by mark before you talk to anyone, separating solid sterling, hollow-handle knives, weighted bases and plate. Do not polish before selling to a refiner — polishing removes silver and refiners buy on assay. For hollow handles, heat gently to ~120–150 °C to soften the pitch cement and pull the blade, then scrape the filler out. Never melt at home; sterling's copper oxidises and a home melt reduces what a refiner will pay.
Is sterling & silver-plated flatware worth more working than as scrap?
Check the pattern before the scale. Common, worn, incomplete or damaged sterling should be melted — the floor is historically high. Complete, named, desirable patterns beat melt by 30–300%: a matched 8-place Francis I service sells $3,500–6,500 against ~$2,400 melt, and Georg Jensen runs 3–8× melt. Completeness and matching are everything; sell serving pieces separately. Plate has no melt option at all, only decorative resale at $25–200 a set.
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